alfapg Four Emerging Designers to Put on Your Radar This Season
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alfapg Four Emerging Designers to Put on Your Radar This Season

data de lançamento:2025-03-25 05:02    tempo visitado:201

On the Verge showcases emerging talent from the worlds of fashionalfapg, food, music, art and design.

ImageA look from Mira Maktabi’s 2024 Central Saint Martins master’s collection, which is the foundation for her namesake label’s upcoming fall 2025 collection.Credit...Courtesy of Mira MaktabiImageAnother look from Maktabi’s 2024 master’s collection.Credit...Courtesy of Mira MaktabiMira Maktabi

The Beirut-born, London-based designer Mira Maktabi credits her interest in fashion to her great-grandmother: “Whether or not she had company, she would dress up in a long velvet caftan, beautiful eyeglasses and diamond rings while having cardamom tea at 5 p.m. sharp,” Maktabi, 26, says. The designer has brought this ethos of “cherishing well-made garments that can [be passed down] for many generations” to her own brand, which she started after earning her master’s from Central Saint Martins in London last year. With her graduate collection, Maktabi paid homage to her design heroes, such as the French couturiers Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet, who were masters of draping, using the technique on silk tops and georgette dresses. These appeared alongside cowhide leather jackets and softly tailored trousers, all in a limited palette of cream, chocolate brown and black. Later this spring in London, she will present a trunk show of her fall 2025 collection, which she says “is a bit dreamier, freer and more evening-focused.” Each item will be custom-made, she says, allowing the garments to “truly belong to the person wearing them.” Though her home country of Lebanon was most recently hit by a series of Israeli airstrikes, Maktabi has trained herself to remain focused on her work: “As Lebanese people, resilience is ingrained in us,” she says. “Creation can be a form of escape.”

Looks from Skarule's fall 2025 collection.Credit...Martins CirulisSkarule

Growing up in post-Soviet era Latvia, Sabine Skarule developed a DIY mentality at a young age. “In ’90s Riga, clothes weren’t bought — they were made,” the designer, 35, says. “My mother had a knitting machine,66jogo casino and I learned how to create a garment from scratch.” Though she moved to Antwerp, Belgium, at age 24 to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and, after graduating, relocated to New York for an internship at the Row, Skarule has remained deeply connected to her cultural heritage. Her 2020 graduate collection, for which she received the H&M Design Award, was titled “+371” in reference to Latvia’s international telephone code, and she returned to Riga to start her namesake brand, which is defined by what she refers to as “Baltic nostalgia.” Her spring 2025 collection includes an oversize black leather jacket with a pattern inspired by a traditional Latvian men’s shirt, and she worked with local craftspeople on pieces like a hand-knit and crocheted mosaic silk vest and hand-woven linen pants with fringe. For her new collection, which she will present during Paris Fashion Week, “the materials — linen, cotton, wool, leather — are deeply tied to a sense of home,” she says. “The color palette is more grounded than usual. Riga’s gray dominates.” She aims to infuse the brand, which is available at Mr. Larkin in Copenhagen and Houston, with what she calls “a quiet undercurrent of Latvian traditions, superstitions and beliefs — the kind of details only a local would recognize.”

ImageA look from Raquel de Carvalho’s fall 2025 collection.Credit...Courtesy of Raquel de CarvalhoImageAnother look from the line’s fall 2025 collection.Credit...Courtesy of Raquel de Carvalho

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An annual survey by American Theater magazine finds that there will be 16 productions this year of “What the Constitution Means to Me,” which ran on Broadway in 2019. There will be 14 productions each of “Fat Ham,” James Ijames’s Pulitzer-winning riff on “Hamlet,” and “King James,” Rajiv Joseph’s buddy drama about two LeBron James fans. And not far behind, with 13: “Primary Trust,” Eboni Booth’s Pulitzer-winning play about loneliness, kindness, and a man who loves mai tais.

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